Day 2
Morning
Begin with a pastry and speciality coffee at Caffè del Doge, tucked into a street near the Rialto Market, before heading over. Though it occupies a Neo-Gothic pavilion built in the 19th century, the market has been the centre of trade for centuries, and it’s the most atmospheric way to experience Venice. Fishmongers’ stalls overflow with the day’s catch from the lagoon, like scampi, calamari, octopus, cuttlefish and tiny schie shrimp, alongside seasonal produce like artichokes from San Erasmus, as Venetians shop for groceries slowly but purposefully with trollies in tow.
Don’t leave without ducking into Drogheria Mascari, an 80-year-old shop that feels frozen in time in the best way possible. Its wooden shelves are lined with tins, teas, herbs, sweets, spices and wine–it warrants a wander, even if you’re not buying anything. For a late-morning snack, grab a miniature sandwich (the speck-and-gorgonzola combo is delightful) and a glass of prosecco col fondo at Al Mercà. It’s standing room only, but you’ll be in good company among locals.
The surrounding streets contain a treasure trove of shops. Pick up a pair (or two) of jewel-toned Friulane slippers at Piedaterre, and stop by Banco Lotto n°10 near Campo San Silvestro, for a garment stitched by inmates at the women’s prison on Giudecca. At Francis Model, you’ll find intricate handmade leather bags in myriad colours and silhouettes at refreshingly reasonable prices.
For lunch, book a table at Antiche Carampane – reserve as far in advance as possible! If fried moeche, the city’s prized soft-shell lagoon crabs, are on the menu, order them.
Afternoon
After lunch, stroll back to Rialto and cross the bustling bridge. Resist the urge to shop there, as most of the Carnival masks and “Murano glass” are fakes. Instead, follow the narrow calli toward Campo San Bartolomeo, then wend through a maze of residential lanes scattered with picture-perfect hidden corners, time-worn bridges, tiny campi and laundry fluttering overhead to arrive at Palazzo Grimani. This grand 16th-century palazzo is filled with classical antiquities, Renaissance artworks and curiosities collected by the powerful Grimani family. After, swing by Papier Machè, a tiny artisan workshop that specialises in exquisitely hand-painted masks–a stark contrast to the mass-produced versions around Rialto. Also around here is the Libreria Acqua Alta, the whimsical bookstore that stores its wares in waterproof bins, including a gondola. It’s indisputably charming, but it’s become so heavily tourist-trodden that it’s difficult to enjoy.
