Delving into some rather fanciful fiction by Francis seemed like a good precursor to visiting John O’Groats itself which, despite its fraudulent recognition as the most northerly point, isn’t as tacky as I remembered. The old Gothic hotel, derelict for years, has reopened at long last, while the village barley mill, which was in a similarly ruinous state until recently, has been converted into a visitor experience centre telling the full story of the milling industry, as well as offering views of seals and orcas from the upstairs windows.
Out to sea, abandoned islands are scattered across the water – Swana is home to a herd of cows that have gone feral and refuse to allow anyone ashore. Stroma is more substantial, with the remnants of cottages still standing from what was once a hardy population of a few hundred. Back on the inhabited mainland, it’s the warmth and modesty of the people living in these parts that make it so alluring. The true far north point of Britain may not be where you think it is, but the rooftop of the country has left me grateful for the journey and eager for more.
Inverness CastleGetty Images
Where to stay in the north of Scotland
The Rising, Tongue
This private, self-catering, modern one storey retreat is resplendent with blonde timber, charcoal accents and huge windows. Uniquely for the area, it also has a sunken bath on the outdoor decking where you can bathe with an audience consisting only of the Highland bulls in the next field; their saffron coloured fur glinting in a dusk light that lasts until close to midnight in the summer months.
Less than ten minutes’ drive from the modest town of Thurso, Forss has a gentleman’s sports pursuits feel. The fishing, stalking and shooting in the region is superb, but even if you don’t know a fishing hook from a Holland & Holland, this is still a superb country house with not-overly-manicured gardens, cosy rooms and a restaurant that has a locally accented tasting menu of an evening where you can feast on sea trout, venison and scallops straight from nearby Scrabster harbour in the lovely conservatory.
The Granary Lodge, Mey
Adjacent to the Castle of Mey, guests can stay in the single storey Granary. My room had a theatrical floral canopy bed, botanical prints, faded Oriental rugs and mahogany furniture. It feels more Cotswolds than Caithness but make for a cosy bolthole from which to watch the sun dip behind the sea with a Dubonnet and gin of your own, ideally with a wedge of lemon, just as the Queen Mother herself preferred.
Royal Marine Hotel, Brora
After Dunnet Head and John O’Groats, as you wind your way back down to Inverness, the Royal Marine Hotel makes for a gorgeous final night’s stay in the region. An Edwardian Highland retreat with broad staircases and a mix of tweed, leather and polished wood furnishings the staff are some of the friendliest in Scotland. Fiona, who has been working in the kitchen here for decades, turns out one of the best Full Scottish Breakfasts in the land, the plate groaning with Lorne sausage, haggis, perfectly poached eggs and tattie scones. The hotel also has an extremely friendly black cat named Seymour who, if he takes to you, will follow you around everywhere, looking for cuddles and strokes rather than food.
The Caledonian Sleeper train departs London Euston six nights a week (no trains on Saturdays). Cabins from £170 each way for two people sharing, which you can book at sleeper.scot A Stroma Wildlife Cruise from John O’Groats costs £55 per adult. Book at stromawildlifecruises.com
