In the grand scheme of things, Scotland’s a small place, drivable from shore to shore in a day and with an ancient, compact capital at its heart.
Part of the allure of an Edinburgh itinerary is that it’s so manageable, yet the offering is far-reaching. There are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites to be found just a short walk away from each other in the Old and New Towns, while the progress around the historic docks in Leith is rapidly changing the area into one of the most dynamic dining and drinking destinations in the world. It’s a place of contrasts, with ancient architecture sitting side by side with contemporary galleries, world-class restaurants and cutting-edge bars.
This melting pot of places has always been a place of pilgrimage for me, growing up on the West Coast and holding it on a pedestal of being the place to go in Scotland when looking for the best in culture and cuisine, or both. Over the years, I’ve spent countless hours covering every inch of the city to uncover my favourite places to indulge in lazy afternoons or lively evenings. My research has included dedicating whole swathes of Augusts to trampling Edinburgh’s streets in search of The Fringe’s best acts, while birthdays and celebrations have revolved around new restaurant openings and rooftop bars for decades.
Now well into my 30s, I want a long weekend anywhere to tick off a few good things: coffee, pastries, comfortable places to lounge over lunch, a couple of spots that make me feel cultured, somewhere to stretch my legs and soak up some sites, a killer dinner and a place to go should the notion hit me to stay out past 10pm.
I also feel strongly about wasting too many steps criss-crossing unfamiliar ground, so I’ve gathered together places by geographical location to ensure you have gas left in the tank at the end of the day to enjoy drinks long into the night…
Your three-day Edinburgh itinerary
Where to stay
Self-catering: The Pavilion at Lamb’s House
The Pavilion at Lamb’s House feels a world away from a central city pad, but its footing in Leith means there’s no arguing the fact that it’s right in the heart of one of Edinburgh’s most desirable neighbourhoods. It’s a modern interpretation of a much older style, sitting seamlessly in its setting, adjacent to the address’s main abode, which is a family home owned by architects Kristin Hannesdottir and Nick Groves-Raines, and one of the finest examples of a 16th-century Merchant’s House anywhere. Set in one corner of the larger property’s walled garden, complete with a central scene of bobbing roses and clipped topiary, the pavilion is arranged over three floors and is finished to the highest standard. Highlights include a sweet nook bed (perfect for kids) and an open fire in the upstairs living room, with everything decorated in a timeless style of rich colours, exacting finishes and antique furniture that all contribute to it being one of our favourite Airbnbs in Edinburgh.
Hotel: 100 Princes Street
Embrace a little maximalism at 100 Princes Street, one of Edinburgh’s best hotels. Sitting squarely in the centre of town, it makes for an excellent base from which to explore. More than that, though, its relatively small size means it manages to achieve a true home-from-home atmosphere with an experienced team out front and comfortable lounging areas to relax into at the end of the day. Rooms are wonderfully decorated in tartans and strong colours to ensure you know exactly where in the world you are, and there’s a lovely bar too for evening tipples.
