This sparkling stretch of Spanish coastline is finally basking in the spotlight – here’s what you need to know

El Far

High on a clifftop beside the historical Sant Sebastià lighthouse above Palafrugell, El Far is a cut above the average beachside rice-and-fish restaurant – in every sense. The menú del día, a steal at €25, might include black croquetas coloured by cuttlefish ink, rockfish soup with Palamós prawns, or a rice dish made with turbot, shrimp and artichoke. Also within the restaurant’s massive vaulted building is a nine-room lodging in the former watchtower.

Address: Barri el Far, 73, 17166 El Far, Girona, Spain
Website: hotelelfar.com

Vii

Among the latest additions to the Roca brothers’ ever-growing Girona-based gastro empire, wine bar Vii takes the genre to new places. The natural wine list is accompanied by a tapas menu that includes soy-sesame marinated red tuna, crisp tortillita de camarones – shrimp fritters – and Jordi Roca’s iconic “bikini”, a neat little sandwich of cheese, ham and truffle. Wised-up waitress Audrey Doré provides formidable insight into the world of left-field Empordà winemaking.

Address: Plaça del Vi, 7, 17004 Girona, Spain
Website: viigirona.com

View of Cala Rostella from the road to elBulli1846

Ana Lui Photography

Things to do along the Costa Brava

elBulli1846

Finally Ferran Adrià, almost certainly the most influential chef in modern history, gets to safeguard his legacy with this museum, opened in 2023. A series of structures house large displays of memorabilia, menus and objects from his El Bulli restaurant, as well as documentary evidence of its 1,846 dishes (hence the name) created by the master. It’s exciting to wander through the original kitchens and dining room, perfectly restored and set up as if for dinner – sadly, no food is on offer.

Address: Carrer la Roca, 4, 17480 Roses, Girona, Spain
Website: elbullifoundation.com

Mas Marès

Recovering a long-abandoned viticultural tradition, Anna Espelt of Espelt winery has planted vineyards on the terraced hillsides of Cap de Creus Natural Park, which are fanned by the salty tramuntana wind. Visitors are driven up the hill to enjoy the splendid coastal views and a tasting of Mas Marès’ sparkling wine.