Dish to order: xiên heo nuóng mè
A recent Bib Gourmand award may have drawn more attention to this small Vietnamese restaurant, but residents of South East London have been booking tables out since the spot opened in summer 2025. Rye Lane is a treasure trove of eateries, with cuisine from all over the world available to hungry locals, so it takes a lot to stand out. The factor that always works? Fun. And Lai Rai offers frivolity in spades, from the red-and-white-striped awning on the exterior to the yellow walls and red LED strip lighting inside. Stepping inside feels a little like stepping into a film set, or a different world (it makes complete sense that the restaurant’s neighbour is Four Quarters, an arcade bar open until the early hours) and guests will be led to one of a handful of small tables on the ground floor or upstairs, before being presented with a selection of menus featuring cocktails, small plates and large plates. The first thing you’ll notice about the food is that it’s not typical of what you might find in most Vietnamese restaurants in London, despite being run by the same team as nearby Bánh Bánh; you won’t find hearty bowls of pho, for example. Instead, expect choạ cổm – prawn lollipops with a sugarcane stick made for chewing on before your next dish arrives – or xiên heo nuóng mè – grilled pork neck skewer with lemongrass, perfectly charred for a bite that’s succulent and sweet. In all honesty, we could have made a meal purely from starters, but I’m glad we didn’t miss out on the hefty bowl of mussels in a creamy coconut broth or the fried coconut-and-mung-bean rice parcels, which were as unique and glutinous as they sound.
Special mention should go to the cocktail list, which is too good to resist, even on a weeknight. The cà phê martini brings a strong hit of Vietnamese coffee – ideal after a long day, actually – but the bui dòi was made for those who love a savoury sip, with olive leaf gin, shio koji, fino sherry, basil eau de vie, dry vermouth and fried rice paper. Visit during the day, and you’ll find that the restaurant takes on more of a cafe vibe. There is, of course, great Vietnamese coffee, plus bánh mì made with freshly baked bread. For locals, it’s a delicious new spot to pop in and out of, but it’s worth travelling (yes, even from the other side of London) to experience this bright and bold new restaurant that’s captured Peckham’s spirit. Abigail Malbon
Address: Lai Rai, 81 Rye Lane, London SE15 4TP
Price: ££
Book online
Legado
Shoreditch, London
