First established in 1615 during the reign of Louis XIII, the market takes its unusual name from an orphanage that was nearby (it closed hundreds of years ago), whose children wore red uniforms. Listed as a historic monument since 1982, the market is an important part of the city’s culinary heritage. Until last night, it was a place where you could shop for fresh produce, browse food stalls and sit down for a delicious meal, all under one roof.
Beyond its historical significance, much of the market’s charm came from the independent traders who had made it their home over the years. Among them was Japanese chef Taeko Inai, who opened her stall in the early 2000s, alongside long-established food businesses serving everything from Moroccan specialities to Italian classics.
As a long-time Paris resident, I found it particularly heartbreaking to see this iconic market go up in flames. Watching the images, I couldn’t help but think of the devastating fire that engulfed Notre-Dame in 2019 – only to discover that, this time, very little was left of this Parisian institution.
The market has long been popular with Parisians, but in recent years it has also attracted growing numbers of international visitors, partly thanks to viral TikTok videos featuring the enormous sandwiches at Chez Alain Miam Miam. But for me, it will always be the place where I used to eat a steaming, delicious tajine at Le Traiteur Marocain after a long day of university lectures, where I joined friends for a glass of wine to celebrate the weekend at Les Enfants du Marché or, more recently, where I grabbed an indulgent crêpe at Lulu Crêperie before a long walk in the Marais.
The market has survived threats before. In the 1990s, plans to demolish the deteriorating site and replace it with an underground car park sparked fierce opposition from local residents and traders, who successfully campaigned to save it. Following extensive renovations, the market reopened in 2000. For now, the future of this much-loved market remains uncertain, as authorities assess the damage to a place that has been feeding Parisians for centuries.