Porto may be Portugal’s second city – after Lisbon – but it did give the country its name from the Roman Portus Cale. Centuries later, the city became famous for its ‘divine nectar of the Gods’, tastings of which are highly recommended in any of the port lodges lining the riverside in Vila Nova de Gaia. From there, look across the Douro at Porto’s colourful jumble of medieval houses, soaring church towers and glossy blue and white tiled facades. Then, use the pointers below to help you weave your way through the city, dipping into its sights, sounds, tastes, and smells to get under its skin.
Capela das Almas churchGetty Images
Spot the tiles
Azulejos are the hand-painted ceramic tiles that clad so many of Porto’s buildings. The word is derived from the Arabic, meaning “small, polished stone”. They were introduced into Portugal by the Moors when they occupied much of the Iberian Peninsula, but became widespread after King Manuel I brought the know-how back after a trip to Seville in 1503. Mainly blue and white, many of the tiles in Porto tell the Saints’ lives or portray Portuguese history.
Start at the early 20th-century railway station of São Bento, in the city centre, where 20,000 hand-painted tiles by Jorge Colaço show scenes of daily life and significant moments in the country’s history. Just a few minutes’ walk away is the church of Santo Ildefonso, where 11,000 tiles – also created by Jorge Colaço – were added to the exterior of this Baroque church in 1932. Try and catch it when framed by a cloudless blue sky for the greatest impact.
Standing near the busy shopping street of Santa Catarina, Capela das Almas is probably Porto’s most photographed church. Its exterior is completely covered with tiles depicting the lives of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Catherine of Alexandria to dramatic effect. Porto cathedral’s dark Gothic cloisters are also worth visiting for its tiles, as is the Igreja do Carmo. Its beautiful blue and white tiles were added to the exterior of the 18th-century Baroque church in 1910.
