You’ve probably heard of the Bazaruto Archipelago. The chain of islands off the southeastern coast of Mozambique is widely regarded as one of Africa’s – if not the world’s – most beautiful coastal regions. On Bazaruto and Benguerra islands, ultra-luxe retreats have quietly welcomed in-the-know travellers in recent years, as Mozambique’s tourism has steadily increased. But as justified as the ‘untouched paradise’ label is on the archipelago, what many visitors overlook is the small coastal town on the mainland, which deserves all the same accolades, but without the luxury price tag.
I’ll admit that when I first visited Mozambique, I had my sights firmly set on Benguerra Island. And as magical as it was, I’m so pleased I tagged on a few days to spend some time in Vilanculos. This underrated town is predominantly used as a jumping-off point for the archipelago – it’s just a 10-minute helicopter transfer away, or 20-60 minutes by boat, depending on which island you’re going to.
Suffice to say, it’s easy to overlook Vilanculos, and many tourists do. But here, on this small slice of Mozambican coast, you’ll find a vibrant, authentic stay that is blissfully tourist-free, and much more affordable than the neighbouring islands.
Firstly, you don’t miss out on the paradise-like atmosphere on the mainland. You’ll find white-sand beaches that stretch for miles, often wonderfully quiet but for fishermen bringing in their daily catch along the shoreline, and traditional dhow boats bobbing on the water. It’s easy to spend your entire time in Vilanculos simply enjoying the beach, but beneath the calm waters lies one of the richest marine ecosystems in the Indian Ocean – snorkelers and divers can enjoy pristine coral reefs teeming with life. Depending on what time of year you visit, you could swim with dolphins, whale sharks, manta rays, turtles and even endangered dugongs (the waters between Vilanculos and the archipelago support the last viable population of dugongs in the western Indian Ocean).
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One of my most memorable afternoons was spent exploring Vilanculos town with a local tour guide, which was arranged by my hotel, Saudade. I learnt about the history of the town – how the indigenous Chopi people built their lives around the sea, and how, around the 10th century, the Mozambican coast became part of a vast trading network linking East Africa with Arabia, Persia, and India. Arab and Swahili traders sailed these waters on dhows, stopping along the coast to exchange goods such as ivory, gold, and spices.
