Afternoon
Walk along the port and marina of Piraeus, stopping to take in the sea views and clusters of boats, or in warmer months, even go for a dip in the small beaches you’ll come across – though the better ones come later. Have a slow, long lunch at one of several great fish tavernas such as Margaro, Akti, or Yperokeanio. Take whatever is the catch of the day and wash it down with tsipouro over ice like the locals.
After lunch, you can spend the rest of the afternoon at the beach and take the coastal tram T7 there. It runs from Agia Triada (Piraeus) to Asklipio Voulas (Voula), covering much of the Athenian Riviera. The general rule is that the further you get from the port, the better the beaches become. A favourite spot is Vouliagmeni, which is lush and green and feels almost outside the city. There’s also Lake Vouliagmeni, once a cave that collapsed thousands of years ago, now a stylish beach club of sorts, with paid sunbeds, smart decking around the lake and cliffs, and a bar and food options.
Evening
After a slow afternoon by the sea, head back into the city centre to spend the evening in Exarcheia – the creative neighbourhood with an anarchist undercurrent and one of the best bar scenes in the city. If you skipped the beach earlier and have extra time after lunch, come here sooner to walk up Lycabettus Hill just before sunset – it’s a beautiful climb with panoramic views over the city. Strefi Hill in Exarcheia is shorter and less scenic, but worth it if you don’t want the full hike. You’ll still get the view of the Acropolis backed by the sea.
Wander the main streets – Asklipiou, Ippokratous, Mavromichali, Charilaou Trikoupi, and Kallidromiou – which connect through a network of pedestrian alleys filled with bars and restaurants between apartment blocks covered in political graffiti. Exarcheia Square is also worth visiting and remains an important site of activism, with rowdy punk bars nearby.
