Puglia is so much more than the postcard picture most people think of, with perfect trulli houses and olive-tree-dotted vistas. It’s a vast region with a strong cultural heritage, historical influences and extraordinary landscapes.
Over three days, this itinerary traces a route from central Puglia down to Salento, covering fairytale towns, impressive architectural sites, cute boutiques, unrivalled beaches and, of course, some of the very best cuisine Italy has to offer. I’ve spent my whole life visiting my family who live in Puglia, and I’ve done this itinerary myself several times. This trip will give you a genuine feel for why this corner of southern Italy is so difficult to leave. Note that the best way to travel around Puglia is by car, so we suggest renting from Bari or Brindisi airport so you can take this itinerary at your own pace. The roads are quite wide, and parking is usually easy.
Day 1
Morning
Begin in Ostuni, the White City. It’s a picturesque village in the Valle d’Itria, perched on an olive tree-dotted hill with views stretching toward the sea. Before exploring, stop into Burro, a Scandi-inspired café specialising in sourdough and whipped butter. Order the breakfast plate or one of the flaky pastries at the counter, fuel up with an espresso, then wander the narrow cobblestone lanes up to the Cathedral of Ostuni, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta. Built in the 15th century, it is one of the finest examples of late Gothic architecture in Puglia, its façade distinguished by a striking 24-rayed rose window, one of the largest in the region.
For shopping, seek out Officine Silentio. Owned by a couple, Luca and Valentina, who left Milan’s fashion world to restore a beautiful antique masseria here. Alongside a property (that is available to rent), they produce an artisanal range of clothing, accessories and homeware. Puglia is renowned for its ceramics, and Ostuni has several good specialist shops: La Mercanteria, Le Icone and Antichità Arte e Vintage Ceramics Francesco Anglani are all worth a browse. Better still, time your visit for the second Sunday of the month, when the Antiques Market sets up around Parco Rimembranze, a happy hunting ground for embroidered linens, vintage crockery and the odd ceramic treasure.
