To find the very best cream teas in Cornwall, you’ve got to know exactly what it is you’re looking for. The essentials of a Cornish cream tea are straightforward: fresh, light scones; bright strawberry jam, rich cream, good tea. Variations of bread served with cream and preserve were recorded as far back as the 11th century, when monks in the south west offered simple sustenance to labourers. Over time, it evolved into the scone, jam and clotted cream that is now a quintessential part of any trip to Cornwall.
The star of a Cornish cream tea is the clotted cream. True Cornish clotted is standing-thick, with a golden crust on top and a richness that comes from gently heating full-cream milk. By law it carries a minimum 55 per cent fat content, giving it a depth that sets it apart. It’s this element that fuels the friendly but unwavering rivalry with Devon – both claim to have ‘invented’ the cream tea, and both take a different approach to assembling the perfect scone. In Cornwall, the order is clear: jam is spread first, then a generous dollop of cream is spooned on top. In truth, no-one in Cornwall really cares how you eat your scone, as long as you enjoy it – but you won’t find a local who doesn’t abide by the jam first approach, it’s just what a cream tea is for Cornish people. And that’s part of the beauty of the Cornish cream tea: yes, it has become a highlight on a Cornwall itinerary, but it’s also still routinely enjoyed by locals, at home, on the beach, in a cliff top café after a good walk. One of my favourite things about my grandmother is that she keeps a supply of homemade scones at all times, literally. She will defrost ‘emergency scones’ on demand if necessary, but they are that integral to her Cornish home.
At its unfussiest, the cream tea is still essentially what it’s always been – an easy, delicious way to fuel a day by the Cornish coast. The very ritual of assembling the scone forces the slower pace that the best bits of Cornwall demand. You’ll find cream teas everywhere from beach cafés to National Trust tearooms, polished country house hotels and even Michelin-starred kitchens perfecting their own version. Here is a roundup of the best cream teas in Cornwall, the places that do it properly – and are worth planning your day’s eating around.
John Hersey
Duchy of Cornwall Nursery
Gorgeous grounds, a farm shop, every plant you could dream of, and a very good cream tea – the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery near Lostwithiel is hard to beat. Take a table in the Orangery for a more elaborate afternoon tea or settle into the café terrace for a classic cream tea with views towards Restormel Castle and a glass of Camel Valley sparkling. Afterwards, wander the gardens, browse the shop and make an afternoon of it.
Address: Cott Road, Lostwithiel PL22 0HW
Website: duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk
Talland Bay Hotel
At Talland Bay Hotel, afternoon tea comes with wide sea views and a sense of fun. Expect proper scones and clotted cream, neat finger sandwiches and seasonal pastries – and the option to swap the teapot for a gin and tonic or a glass of fizz. It’s a perfect place to settle down and relax after climbing back up from nearby Lantic Bay, one of Cornwall’s most beautiful hidden beaches.
