Best for: archaeological enthusiasts
Flight time: 3h10 minutes to Catania, which is around an hour’s drive from Syracuse
Train time: around 24 hours from London via Paris and Milan and including a sleeper train across the Strait of Messenia to Sicily
In its Greco-Roman heyday, Syracuse was the world’s largest and most important ancient city – and today, it’s home to some of Europe’s most celebrated archaeological ruins. But this diminutive, sun-drenched Sicilian city (a few years ago, it recorded Europe’s highest-ever temperature) is far more than the sum of its historical parts. With Mount Etna smouldering quietly in the background, glassy Porto Grande Bay gently curling around the city and a beguiling blend of Baroque, Greek, Roman and Medieval architecture packed into the narrow streets, the setting itself does much of the talking. A quick hop across the water leads you to Ortigia, Syracuse’s historical centre, where the daily food market is a hit on the senses and the contemporary restaurants draw critical acclaim. In the summer, rise early to snaffle a spot on the small pebbly beach at Spiaggia di Cala Rossa, or settle in for a coffee and some people-watching in glittering Piazza Duomo. Following your nose is the only real way to explore, but whatever you do, make sure you find your way to Antica Giudecca – their jumbo arancini balls are hands down the best street food in town.
Where to stay: Spread across two beautifully-restored 19th-century palazzi, Hotel Gutwowski sits on the water’s edge in Ortigia. Ultra-minimalist, dreamy-creamy bedrooms look out over the coastline, and there’s a gorgeous rooftop terrace for sucking in the salty air.
