Naples, CampaniaGetty Images
Naples, Campania
Once you’ve had a taste of the gleefully infectious, beautiful chaos of Naples, you’re hooked: the buzzing traffic, grand architectural heritage, a lived-in historic centre, enthralling culture and the guileless warmth of its people. Obligatory sights include Caravaggio’s whimsical Seven Acts of Mercy at the Church of Pio Monte della Misericordia, Giuseppe Sanmartino’s ethereal Veiled Christ at Cappella Sansevero Giuseppe and the extensive Archaeological Museum. Naples’ contemporary art profile is rising at a steady clip. Recent years have seen Gallerie d’Italia open with a dedicated wing and the arrival of an outpost of London’s Thomas Dane Gallery, both joining the ranks of decades-old mainstays like Pan and Madre. Mount Vesuvius rises dramatically over the gulf–hike to its crater or take part in a tasting of Lacryma Christi (Christ’s tears), a wine from grapes cultivated on its slopes. The Pompeii and Herculaneum archaeological sites are south of the city, but if you want to venture further afoot, hop on a ferry to Capri, Ischia or Procida. When you’re in town, digging into a Neapolitan pie at (at least) one of these pizzerias is compulsory: Concettina ai Tre Santi, anything by Gino Sorbillo, 50 Kalò, Diego Vitagliano and La Notizia. If you’re pining for more, two of the world’s best pizzerias can be found in Caserta, just under an hour by car: I Masanielli and Pepe in Grani. Locanda Gesù Vecchio Vesuvius serves excellent traditional Neapolitan cuisine back in the city.
Where to stay in Naples: The artsy Atelier Inès is a six-room B&B in the Rione Sanità neighbourhood with an onsite showroom and gallery.
Milan, LombardyGetty Images
Milan, Lombardy
Italy’s most international city is arguably its most misunderstood. Milan doesn’t fit the standard “Italy mould”, but it’s just as fetching as its more in-your-face counterparts. The Duomo, Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II, La Scala, Brera, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper are all musts, but there’s more to the Lombard capital. Take in the local energy by strolling Porta Venezia, a district buzzing with boutiques, restaurants, cafes, bars, galleries and Art Nouveau facades, or Isola, a regenerated working-class neighbourhood that’s a stomping ground for hipsters and three-piecers alike. Fashion meets art at Fondazione Prada, Armani Silos and Palazzo Morando, whose permanent collection rotates 17th-21st century Milanese costumes, clothes, and accessories, and design devotees will relish Villa Necchi Campiglio and Triennale di Milano museum. An aperitivo at Bar Basso is a must, as is imbibing at one of the innovative mixology hubs that have shaken up the local cocktail scene, like Rita, Carico, Tripstillery, Unseen Bar and Drinc.
