Yong Fu
While Hong Kong is mostly about Cantonese food, Yong Fu offers a rare treat from Ningbo, Eastern China – delicate, seafood-driven and intensely seasonal. Rarely outside of the Mainland will you find this sort of food presented at this level: expect meticulous sourcing, from mud crab, marinated and served raw, to river eels and freshwater fish, nuts and greens only known in that region, all prepared with understated precision. This is an elegant detour from the usual fare, and a delectable reminder of the diverse culinary traditions of the country at large.
Address: Shop 2, G/F & 1/F, Golden Star Building, 20-22 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai
Website: yongfuhk.com
The Chairman
Deceptively simple, unshowy, yet profound, The Chairman is perhaps the very definition of modern Cantonese cuisine. Founder Danny Yip honours tradition while quietly reshaping it – coaxing depth from local clams, flower crab, pigeon and the like. His respect for provenance and seasonality has influenced an entire generation of chefs. The Chairman rewards those who plan ahead – reservations are notoriously hard to secure.
Address: 3/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central
Website: thechairmangroup.com
Big JJ Seafood Hotpot Restaurant
“Noisy, rude, overrated” states Big JJ’s website – and it’s that swagger that epitomises this raucous hotpot joint’s appeal. Having gained cult status during its original cramped, side-alley incarnation, it recently relocated to more spacious digs in the swanky Prince’s Building – yet its combination of retro dai pai dong (street hawker) vibes with top-drawer ingredients (including locally slaughtered beef and catch-of-the-day seafood), a savvy wine list and up-for-it service, remains as irresistible as ever. Book in advance or expect long lines, whether you’re coming for a hearty rice or noodle dish at lunch, or a full-on Cantopop-soundtracked hotpot feast for dinner.
Address: Basement, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central
Website: bigjjseafood.com