Aktar Islam’s favorite restaurants in the UK

I spoke to Aktar recently to find out more about the late-spring opening in Borough. Oudh 1722, it’s clear, is set to be as sensational as its bigger sibling up in Birmingham, but with a unique focus on the Awadhi cuisine of northern India. He is quick to tell me that this is not going to be a southern version of Opheem, which was “a personal take on the development of Indian cuisine and I’m not trying to do that again. That was about working with the history of the entire subcontinent using the best of British seasonal produce. Opheem is a very unique proposition, and it will never be recreated, ever again.” Incidentally, it is the only two Michelin-starred restaurant in Birmingham, and such accolades clearly bring him immense joy. But he is also a London lover and feels he has an enormous amount to contribute to the capital’s dining scene. “What will happen in London is a tasting menu experience based around Awadhi cuisine and emulating that in a very communal way. It’ll be very much about sharing and using your hands.”

The listed Victorian building in Borough that will house Oudh 1722 will offer dining across three floors. It sounds like the perfect place to present Awadhi cooking, which originated in 1722 (hence the restaurant name) in the Lucknow region. The northern Indian territory is considered one of the country’s epicentres of great cuisine and was recently recognized by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy. Despite such recognition, Awadhi cuisine (a style of food shaped in the Royal courts of the region) isn’t well known in the UK, even though it’s defined by favorites such as biryanis. Aktar tells me that his “whole career has been about taking Indian food to its zenith. Seeking perfection is probably part of my journey. This is essentially a renaissance of food and a time of celebration dedicated to art, music, poetry, and food. When you speak to Indians about the height of sophistication in Indian cuisine, they’ll almost always refer to Awadhi cuisine. The sentiment resonates with me, and this is about adding my accent to it.”

Aktar has, he tells me, studied Indian food for over 30 years, and he’s spent a lot of time in India. Awhadi cuisines really “piqued my interest, and that interest made me dig deeper to understand more about the beauty and the ceremony behind it. I’m known for my avant-garde delivery, but the foundations of my food are always rooted in traditional history. Lots of people will have had a biryani, but the kitchen will be visible, and people will see the entire process of one being made. It’s a part of Indian culture that is revered. This is a very personal journey for me. I want to give this cuisine the respect and reverence that it deserves.”

Oudh 1722, with its flirtation between fine-dining and communal cuisine, very much reflects Aktar’s entire approach to cooking and his success as a chef: “Getting the first Michelin star was incredible, but the second one was that and so much more. And the journey doesn’t stop there because it has always been about creating a totally unique dining experience worldwide. Oudh 1722 will feature dishes many diners are familiar with, like Biryanis, but they’ll be served in a completely new way. I think that’s become a real hallmark of my career and what I do with Indian food. Or any cuisine that I take an interest in.”