The good news: Zoom birthdays are, hopefully, soon to be a thing of the past. Forever. The slightly less good news: with plenty of places still yet to reopen and weeks-in-advance bookings currently a bit of a norm, finding a special-occasion table at one of the best restaurants in London is even trickier than it was pre-pandemic. Now, as then, you probably want somewhere central and stylish, with faultless food and service.