RECIPE: how to make kake udon noodles

Masaki Sugisaki, executive chef of London’s Dinings SW3, shows us how to make the ultimate Japanese comfort food: kake udon noodles. The most basic form of hot udon soup, this dish can be upgraded in many different ways by mixing up the toppings – from meat and fish to vegetables and crispy tempura – but it is perfectly delicious, refreshing and filling on its own.

Any type of udon works for this, so it’s a great way to introduce the noodles into your cooking. The broth is made from dashi stock, which is very quick to prepare and only needs a few extra ingredients: bonito flakes, which have a strong, smoky flavour, and dried kombu seaweed, a Japanese staple from Hokkaido. For seasoning, add soy sauce for a salty kick and mirin sake for sweetness, topped off with sliced spring onions and shichimi, a spice mix of seven ingredients including yuzu zest, nori and a Japanese version of Szechuan pepper.

‘I was born and raised in a region called Kanto in Japan, famous for udon – in particular, what is known as Musashino udon,’ says Sugskai. ‘I consider this dish to be a real soul food. Unlike ramen, which I’d say is more popular, udon is much cleaner and lighter in flavour and is incorporated into people’s daily diets all over Japan – similar to the way pasta is eaten in Europe. Although it is made from very simple ingredients – flour, water and salt – the noodle itself has a very unique character, what I like to say is a mochi-like texture. I always get excited about cooking this dish, and enjoy developing the character of the noodles, which is actually done by placing the dough in a bag and stepping on it (hygienically, of course!). This might sound a little crazy but it’s really fun to do while having therapeutic benefits as well.’

INGREDIENTS

Dashi (serves two)

• 1 litre of water, soft or filtered
• 15g dried kombu seaweed
• 30g bonito flakes

Seasoning (serves two)

• 480g dashi stock
• 45g soy sauce (if opened, ensure this is kept in the fridge)
• 55g mirin

Noodles (serves two; 200g per person)

• 2-3 litres of water
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Toppings

• Spring onion, thinly sliced and rinsed
• Shichimi spice mix or chilli flakes

METHOD

Takes 25 minutes

Dashi

1. Submerge the kombu in water and set aside for a minimum of two hours.
2. Bring the water to boiling point.
3. Once the water starts to boil, stop the heat and take out the kombu.
4. Add the bonito flakes and let them infuse for three minutes without touching them.
5. Gently pass through a kitchen cloth.

Seasoning

1. Mix all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil.

Noodles

1. Boil the noodles following the instructions.
2. Place the noodles in a serving bowl and pour over the heated broth.
3. Finish with the toppings.

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