11 best Turkish restaurants in London, according to Toyo Odetunde

Address: 7 West Lane, Canary Wharf, London E22 3AA
Website: cafebeam.co.uk

Mangal Ocakbaşı (Mangal I), Dalston

Opened at the start of the 90s by Ali Dirik, who had moved to London from Istanbul in 1987, Mangal Ocakbaşı helped introduce London to the pleasures of traditional Turkish charcoal-grill cooking, long before Dalston became a destination for the capital’s food lovers. Still a firm favourite today, its bright red signage is a local landmark, just a few minutes’ stroll from its younger sibling, or perhaps cousin, Mangal 2. Inside, brickwork and arched details set the scene for a no-frills dining room that’s still homely and welcoming. The menu is comprehensive, spanning Turkish staples from lahmacun – thin, crisp flatbread topped with minced lamb, onion and peppers – to falafel, simmered vegetable stews and sarma stuffed with rice and pine kernels.

But the main event is, of course, the kebabs and charcoal-grilled meats. A smoky aroma hits as you walk through the door, courtesy of the enormous mangal at the entrance. The lamb şiş, or çöp şiş, is a particular highlight, with succulent pieces of meat with a rich, savoury depth from the charcoal, while the chicken beyti – minced chicken wrapped in lavash – is tender and delicately garlicky. For a more substantial feast, order a mixed grill and let the kitchen show off its range, with the meat arriving alongside warm bread, fresh salad and sauces that bring sharpness and heat. The lahmacun is another good choice, its thin base turning crisp around the edges beneath its savoury, well-seasoned topping. Part of the appeal here is the sense that little has changed over the years. This is a lively, often cramped room, where tables fill quickly, and queues can form outside, particularly at weekends and in the evenings. Come hungry, ideally with friends, and order generously to share. Mangal Ocakbaşı isn’t trying to reinvent Turkish cooking; indeed, its enduring success lies in doing the classics well, with the charcoal grill at the heart of it all.