Whenever I think about going out for a really nice meal, buzzy city centres and downtown areas typically come to mind. Often, the best restaurants are clustered in these areas to attract locals and tourists alike, and invite those just passing by to walk in. But nowadays, I find myself more drawn to the humble neighbourhood restaurant. No longer just for the local community – diners are becoming increasingly willing to travel far and wide for a table at these establishments.
Neighbourhood eateries are usually smaller and more intimate, offering lunch or supper that feels closer to eating like a local than being thrust into a thronging crowd of tourists in the middle of the city. And while this feeling is particularly evident in London, a number of neighbourhood restaurants serving incredible food can be found all across the country. These are the best ones to visit on your next staycation.
Chakana, Birmingham
The neighbourhood: Moseley
This modern Peruvian restaurant is located in the small-but-artsy suburb of Moseley in southern Birmingham. It’s owned and run by Peruvian-born chef Robert Ortiz, who brought London’s Lima its first Michelin star in 2014, and co-owner Steve Dickinson. The space is lively and welcoming, the food vibrant and the menu largely gluten-free. Here, diners will find classics like zesty ceviches and creamy causa, as well as Peru’s lesser-known culinary delights including Andean potato stew, made with spuds grown at an altitude of 3,500 metres in the Peruvian Andes; steamed cod with yuca stew and kiwicha, a superfood grain native to the country; suckling pig with a chocolate sauce and charapita chilli; and more.
Address: 140 Alcester Road, Moseley, Birmingham B13 8HT
Website: chakana-restaurant.co.uk
Palmito, Brighton and Hove
The neighbourhood: Brunswick Town
Smack bang between Brighton and Hove lies Palmito, a tiny, slightly chaotic restaurant that everyone wants to literally squeeze into. There are only 20 seats in here, so expect to be rubbing shoulders with your table neighbours. It’s difficult to really advise anyone on what to order in Palmito as chefs and founders Kanthi Thamma, from South India, and Diego Ricaurte from Ecuador, tend to play things fast and loose, drawing culinary inspiration from whatever tickles their fancy from week to week and depending on what is available on the market. As Grace Dent put it in her 2023 review, diners “go on a journey” when they visit the restaurant, and it would seem to be a journey to all of Ricaurte’s favourite culinary destinations. The menu may not be predictable, but many dishes are vegan, and the menu is split between vegetarian and vegan dishes, fish plates and meat-forward dishes, so there’s something for everyone.