There is also excellent food – and people-watching – to be had at Platis Gialos, a long, shallow strip of sand lined with beach bars and restaurants. You might even spot Tom Hanks at Omega3, a tiny fish and wine bar where it’s worth wrestling the competition for a stool. Here, the seafood (much of it harpooned by the owner, Vasilis Vlachogiorakis) is cured, caramelised, smoked and cooked sous-vide.
On Saturday evening, everyone hits Apollonia, the lively hill-top capital, for a night out. Here, stylish French couples buy beaded sandals and block-printed kaftans on Steno, the narrow lane that snakes through town (Colores boutique has the best selection of summer essentials). Trendy bars have sprung up on rooftops and terraces all over the place, but O Drakakis is still the heart of the action – an old-time kafenio where locals have been chewing the fat and knocking back rakomelo (warm grappa with honey, cinnamon and cloves) since 1887. I soak up my rakomelo shots with slivers of fried manoura – crumbly goat’s cheese cured in red wine. For me, nothing can beat Botzi 93, a little bar that serves brunch in the courtyard and sundowners on the roof teracce, but really gets going after midnight. The warren of smoky rooms, lethal Mojitos and Afro-Cuban tunes take me back 25 years, and I am young again, and completely carefree.
Where to stay on Sifnos
Verina Astra
Verina Hotels has three stylish boltholes: with its cliff-side setting, Verina Astra (doubles from about £260) is effortlessly sexy. All suites have stunning sea views, exclusive access to the dazzling infinity pool and excellent botanical spa, and priority booking at field-to-fork Med-fusion restaurant, Bostani.
Verina Terra
At Verina Terra (doubles from about £150), minimalist maisonettes are set around peaceful gardens and a family-friendly pool. Most guests take advantage of the daily yoga and Pilates classes in a bamboo pavilion or beneath the olive trees. Across the road on sandy Platis Gialos beach, there are sunbeds, pedalos, a couple of low-key beach bars (our pick is Palmira), and half a dozen superb waterfront restaurants (including hot ticket Omega3).
Verina Villa
Bang on Vathi bay, white-on-white Verina Villa (sleeps 18; from about £2180 per night) has a gym, hammam, tennis court and saltwater pool, plus a fleet of canoes, kayaks and surfboards you can take to the beach, which is just beyond the garden gate.
Nos
Nos (classic room from about £300) opened in summer 2022, bringing some much-needed pizzazz to the sleepy fishing village of Faros, which has since evolved into a culinary hot spot. Sun-kissed suites in shades of sand and olive are clustered around the photogenic pool and outdoor restaurant, where the modern Greek menu (deftly devised by celebrity chef Athinagoras Kostakos) is beautifully plated on local ceramics. Ask for a suite with views of Chryssopigi, the island’s prettiest monastery, which is a lovely 30-minute hike along a coastal trail. The open-air spa burrowed into the cliffside has even more sensational views. stayatnos.com
