The best restaurants in Vienna have aimed sky-high in recent years, with a galaxy of Michelin stars putting the Austrian capital right up there on a culinary pedestal with Europe’s best – not least the recently three-star-awarded Steirereck im Stadtpark. But change is widespread, too. In a city where gutsy classics like schnitzel, dumplings and strudel were once menu stars, there is now a crackle of innovation, a desire to reinvent, and a passion for raiding forests, lakes, farms and vineyards for the freshest ingredients prepared with precision and served with panache.
The beisl – or bistro – has been tarted up for the 21st century. Art nouveau buildings have been sanded down, stripped back and given glam makeovers. Menus nod to nature. Wines are natural. Plant-based and nose-to-tail dining are getting bigger and better. And there are good bits pinched from overseas, too – izakaya for sushi and sake, tapas reimagined for Austria, and a flourishing aperitivo culture taking over schanigärten – the city’s beloved terraces and gardens that, when open, are a sure sign it’s summer. These are the best restaurants in Vienna.
Otto Will Meer
Down by the Danube Canal and just a hop away from the cool Karmeliterviertel, once the hub of Jewish life in Vienna, Otto Will Meer is the latest string to Leopoldstadt’s culinary bow. The clue’s in the word play: “Otto wants more” or, if you speak German, “Otto wants the sea”. Bingo. That’s what you’re going to get at this playful revamp of Otto Wagner’s Schützenhaus, a gracious Art Nouveau vision in white and blue. Inside, it’s an ode to the ocean – tiles creating a fish scale mural across the wall, raffia fish lights, shell-patterned chairs, shades of teal, turquoise and vivid blue. And the menu: more of the same. Starters thrill: rock oysters slick with ponzu, a gorgeous fritto misto of calamari, seabass and boquerones, seared scallops spiced up with masala. Mains move into deeper waters: chunky cod fillet with white-wine butter foam and glazed vegetables, crispy octopus with salsa, and a whole, perfectly cooked bream. Or, for a taste of everything, order a seafood platter. The wine list hovers between Austria and Spain, and, frankly, it’s a happy place to be. Kerry Walker
Address: : Otto Will Meer, Obere Donaustrasse 26, 1020 Wien
Skopik & Lohn
One of my go-to places for schnitzel (along with Meierei in Stadtpark, though only in summer), this bistro is a solid local favourite near the leafy Augarten. Above the wooden panels and white-clothed tables is a distinctive doodle mural by artist Otto Zitko, a black spaghetti of lines flowing across the walls and ceiling, which sums up the approach here: traditional recipes with a contemporary spin. Apart from the schnitzel – golden brown and gloriously light, with the usual cranberry jelly and chive-flecked potato salad – the menu reaches wings its way around the globe in dishes such as venison tataki with umeboshi (salt-pickled plums), shiitake, anchovy panko and oregano, and cured salmon trout with sour cream, wasabi, cucumber, dill and tobiko. Save an inch for showstopping desserts, which include curd dumplings with roast apricot, and a fun Snickers homage with peanut cream and ganache with mascarpone ice cream. A cracking starting point for any Vienna visit.
Address: Skopik & Lohn, Leopoldsgasse 17, 1020 Wien
Website: skopikundlohn.at
Rosi
If you still fall into the camp that believes that vegetables can never be as exciting as meat, have faith and prepare to be converted at Rosi, a neo-beisl newcomer to Vienna’s food scene with an interesting, all-veggie twist. Just a waltz away from the crazy baroque romance of the Unesco World Heritage Schönbrunn Palace, Rosi has turned up the culinary heat overnight in the city’s oft-overlooked 15th district. The interior puts modern riffs on vintage – a scattering of bistro tables, painted wood panelling, a retro bar and coffee machine. Rooted in the region, the food is quite something, singing of the seasons and playing up the freshest produce. Baby fennel with saffron velouté. Black salsify with asparagus foam, kaffir lime and almond crumb. Fluffy dumplings with Jerusalem artichoke and plum. Dive in – it’s all delicious, and there are no mistakes here. Food is generous and designed to be shared and paired with natural wines. On weekends, the brunch club takes over from 9.30am to 3pm. Come hungry. Kerry Walker
