Riverwaters rush and church bells chime throughout this characterful Wiltshire town eight miles east of Bath. Bradford-on-Avon is the West Country’s best kept secret, so local insight into the best things do, and as the best places to stay, is the only way to plan a trip. Its true that its endless 17th century limestone houses, medieval ruins, Georgian facades and once-upon-a-time famed cloth and rubber mills are quintessentially British and very pretty. But the town remains unaffected by its beauty. On the cusp of a Somerset and Cotswolds catchment, Bradford-On-Avon – known affectionately as BoA – is free of the swarming Farmhouse-adjacent crowds and, while its growing in the trend stakes and peppered with excellent restaurants and hotels, it’s still gloriously friendly, welcoming, unpretentious and close enough to London to visit for a short weekend break.
Removed from some of the stuffy collars and overpriced farm shops further out, in BoA you might instead encounter thrifted gems, locally knitted garments, music at the legendary music hall, a Desi dinner with character, ancient tea rooms or rambunctious pubs bursting with friendly faces. Kayaks and barges seem to spirit away down the alternately sparkling or misty canal, on which you can rent barges or canoes, or walk alongside all the way to Bath.
As a London dweller originating from a small Worcestershire village, I know all about the Cotswolds/Cotswolds-adjacent hype from either end of the spectrum. This town’s blend of nature and friendly buzz has been refreshing and welcoming as I spend increasing amounts of time in the West Country with my blended family. Rolling foggy landscapes, wonky shambles walkthroughs, fireside games and riverside pints are in my bumpkin blood… yet I still crave the connective community sense of belonging and some of the convenience I get in Hackney.
Steep hills of BoA’s town centre, lined with independent shops and some excellent restaurants, offer both tucked-away tininess and vast, sweeping views to Salisbury and the chalk Bratton White Horse. Myriad walking routes take you down and across the rivers Kennet, Avon, and Biss where keen birdwatchers might count cyan kingfishers and pouncing cormorants. A decent amount of spa and boutique townhouse stays are well situated and still surrounded by green – and are only ten minutes by train or car to Bath, thirty to Bristol and two hours to London.
Here’s a guide to exploring Bradford-On-Avon, whilst respecting local traditions and heritage and supporting independent businesses and its unique camaraderie.
