Back at Akara, though, by the time the lunch crowds have poured in and I’ve sunk my teeth into the restaurant’s spongy eponymous dish, I can’t help but feel a renewed pride in the food that still tastes like home. And in the knowledge that there’s still so much more to come.
The best West African restaurants in London
Edikang ikong soup at 805Carlos Martinez
805, Peckham, Hyde Park and Hendon
There’s a simple elegance to the duck-egg-blue and silver interiors of the iconic Old Kent Road flagship, which still retains its community vibe. Everyone goes for the Monika, a signature dish of marinated grilled fish and fried plantain, served as a main or to share. The lamb suya is a generous portion of smoky, grilled, tender meat crumbed in nutty and piquant yaji spice, served with fresh tomato and onion – naturally flavoured coolants to balance the layered heat.
Address: 805 Old Kent Road, London SE15 1NX; 24 Kendal Street, Connaught Square, London, W2 2AW; 60, Vivian Avenue, London NW4 3XH
Website: 805restaurants.com
Akara, Borough
Within the Dickensian railway arches of Borough Yards, this brick-walled space is filled with vanilla tones, greenery and bursts of modern art. Carefully presented dishes borrow from a range of West African culinary traditions and Afro-Brazilian cuisine. As well as the akara fritters with ox cheek or pan-seared scallop, a standout is the edesi isip, an aromatic coconut rice with a creamy vatapá sauce and glinting mini parallelograms of mackerel. Cocktails are great too, and include the Palm Punch, which combines refreshing notes of hibiscus and smooth palm liquor.
Address: Arch 208, 18 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AD
Website: akaralondon.co.uk
Ayo AdeyemiJODI HINDS
Akoko, Fitzrovia
With its clever village hut theme and modern design, Akoko exudes a moody sophistication mirrored in the beaded Nigerian flag artwork on its wall. It’s known for its beautifully plated, innovative pan-West African tasting menu and curated wine pairings. A highlight on a recent visit was coal-roasted king oyster mushroom with Senegalese sosu kaani pepper sauce, served with light, fresh monkfish and an emerald-green creamed ayamase stew. Akoko was awarded a Michelin star in 2024.
