Penang, the diverse Malaysian state, has evolved into a hub of high-end dining

People come to George Town, the state’s capital, on the island of Penang, to look at the murals in its warren of narrow streets, admire the pastel-hued shophouses with their Europe-meets-China aesthetic, and stay in pretty boutique hotels in restored buildings. But food is the biggest draw. On nearly every street corner, a meal reflecting Penang’s mosaic of ethnic influences awaits – the net result of the waves of immigration that peaked in the 18th and 19th centuries. A prominent British trading post in the Strait of Malacca, Penang brought merchants and labourers of Chinese, Indian, Burmese, Arab and European descent. They mingled dishes and cooking styles, ultimately forming a complex cuisine called Peranakan, or Nyonya, which fills the air with the scent of tamarind and nutmeg.

Among the old warehouses and fraying shophouses, a modern culinary movement is afoot. For years, Penang’s brightest talents left for foodie cities such as Hong Kong or Singapore. But now, encouraged by a new generation of curious, well-travelled Penangites, many of whom returned home during the pandemic, chefs such as Su are also moving back, fired up by successful stints abroad. The result is a restaurant scene that, as Su puts it, “contributes to the identity of Penang as a serious food destination”. Street fare still rules, but thoughtful, refined dining is close behind.