Best for: a romantic stay in a historic town
Halfway up the hill on a cobbled street in Gjirokastër’s old town, in between Ismail Kadare’s house and the yellow Fico house, family-owned N’Sokak is a boutique stay with a strong sense of place. The Grade II-listed townhouse, built in the 1800s and once home to a well-known local family, has been thoughtfully restored and transformed into a cosy guesthouse, blending Albanian heritage with contemporary comfort.
The house is a homage to local arts and crafts, with dark-wood interiors and sculptures by the late Gjirokastër artist Arben Bajo, as well as paintings by his daughter, Era. Each of the four rooms has plush double beds and mountain views – the two on the top floor come with private balconies. The King Suite is the one to book, with its deep, egg-shaped bathtub – a rarity in Albania and a treat after a day climbing to the castle and back. Thoughtful, sustainable touches abound – refillable White Company toiletries, filtered water infused with rosemary and lemon, and a breakfast spread showcasing locally sourced ingredients.
Downstairs, an open fire, armchairs and coffee table books await – perfect for easygoing evenings cradling a çaj mali (mountain tea) or glass of Albanian wine. If you don’t have the energy to eat out, a private chef can be brought in to prepare a selection of specialities for you to try. Fittingly, N’Sokak – meaning ‘alleyway’ in Albanian – feels like a secret hideaway, a place where you can while away a few days in one of the prettiest UNESCO-listed towns in the world.
Price: From about £90 per night.
La Fe Boutique Hotel Sarande
Best for: beach
With its dark green shutters, parquet floors and chandeliers, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the French rather than the Albanian Riviera. Located just a block from the main strip, on a pedestrianised street that snakes up the hillside, LaFe is easily Sarande’s most sophisticated sanctuary. Inside, the aesthetic is equally chic: wood-panelled walls, marble bathrooms, and gilded mirrors. Ask for the suite, which has a bathtub and private balcony so you can enjoy leisurely mornings soaking up the sun and Ionian views. Breakfast is served in the bar area or outside on the pavement tables. There’s no formal menu, just whatever is fresh that morning—usually eggs, local cheeses, buttery avocado, fresh orange juice and good strong coffee. LaFe doesn’t have its own restaurant, but cocktails are available on request, and the city’s vibrant dining scene is only a short stroll away. The ferry terminal to Corfu is a 10-minute walk along the promenade, and the UNESCO archaeological site of Butrint is a 30-minute drive.
Price: From about £100 per night.