Where the Chefs Eat: Xanthe Ross on her favourite restaurants in Athens

When switching off from social media, Xanthe loves to travel. She’s visited Athens several times for its deep cultural heritage and food history. “The first time I went, I went by myself, and I just found it so inspiring and so welcoming and warm,” she tells me. “You have so much tradition, culture and classic Greek food to choose from. The tavernas are amazing, but then there’s also some great modern takes to be found, too. They’re doing justice to Greek food culture but with their own modern spin. It’s full of really inspiring people doing some very cool things.” And, with that, Xanthe gives us her five favourite eateries in Athens.

Cafe Avissinia

Your favourite restaurants come from the experience, but also the mood you’re in when you’re there, and who you’re with, and this is my favourite in Athens, though the rest of the restaurants I’ve given are in no particular order. I’m a bit of a perfectionist about my experience in a restaurant, and I’m definitely driven by which table I have. If I’m sitting at a good table, I’m happy! I wandered in here and sat outside on the left of the door. It was boiling hot – it was July, which is probably not the time to go to Athens; (I’d go in the spring or autumn). Anyway, the team here were so lovely and friendly. I remember one of them asked if he could take my photo for me, so I’ve got a picture of myself looking so happy, and the food is really good. It’s small plates of Greek classics. I’ve had some not-so-good bread experiences in Greece, but the bread here was incredible, and I had it with the aubergine dip. I also had excellent anchovies. I imagine it’s lovely to sit inside in the evening when it’s a little cooler and not quite so busy if you go for dinner, but I went for lunch, and it was wonderful. There was a really nice market in the square nearby. This is just on the edge of an alley off the square, so I sat watching the market from where I was, and it was really lovely.

People dining in the Plaka district of Athens

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Guarantee Sandwiches

The first time I ate here, it was about 42° outside. I’ve been a couple of times now. It is a Greek-owned place, and I had just got back on a ferry from one of the Greek islands. We had an hour to kill before going to the airport, so I managed to drag my friends here. It was the kind of heat where the pavement was actually melting, and this was the perfect spot for us. It’s a tiny deli, and it’s a great business. This was recommended by a friend who said it was the one place to go in Athens if we only went to one. And I’d almost say the same. The sandwiches are served on really delicious, crispy bread, and they do freshly squeezed juice, which was perfect in that heat. I’m a creature of habit, so I would have had a sandwich with burrata or Stracciatella cheese with cured ham and marinated artichokes, and possibly another vegetable. They have a mix of fruit and vegetables, so you can ask for any combination to be mixed into a juice. It’s quite light as well because it’s on the thin, crispy bread, so it doesn’t knock you out.

Diporto

This is pretty popular in Athens now. There’s a trap door, and you walk down through that into the restaurant, which is beautiful and a very traditional classic taverna. It’s just a really lovely environment and very well priced; it’s understated and so lovely. I went for lunch, and I most vividly remember the beans. I think it’s made with fava beans, served in a tomato sauce, and it came with sardines. It’s actually not that dark in there, even though it’s underground. I don’t know if it’s even open for dinner, but I would definitely recommend going for lunch. I don’t know if you know Agora in London – I haven’t been yet – but it’s by the same people who own Oma. I read an article that claimed Diporto to be, quite possibly, the best restaurant in the world – apparently, it inspired Agora. I don’t drink all the Greek liquor like Ouzo, but I had a lovely glass of white wine there.