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A summer wellness getaway in Budapest’s storied baths

Written by Travel Adventures

Weekends are abuzz at the two branches of Franziska, the earthy, uplifting daytime restaurant founded by baker Franciska Horváth, which means there are always tempting desserts like paleo brownies and gluten-free, vegan almond butter-coffee mousse cakes. There are also blueberry-beet and coconut cream smoothies, toast slathered in homemade cashew butter and raspberry sauce, and salads tossed with edamame, red pepper, pickled red onion, and roasted peanut.

Address: Franziska – Buda, Budapest, Iskola u. 29, 1011 Hungary; Franziska – Pest, Budapest, Rumbach Sebestyén u. 3, 1075 Hungary
Website: franziska.hu

Hétköznapok

There are just a few tables at Hétköznapok, and it’s open only during the week, but this no-frills restaurant in out-of-the-way Budafok makes the best pizza in the area, distinguished by ever-changing toppings like butter-roasted shiitake mushrooms, burnt capia peppers, and Thai basil that reflect chef Csaba Sajben’s penchant for fresh produce. Don’t sleep on the summer soups, chilled recipes that imaginatively bring together such ingredients as rhubarb and spiced granola.

Address: Hétköznapok, Budapest, Jókai Mór u. 38, 1223 Hungary
Website: facebook.com

Laurel

For a fine dining destination, Laurel is decidedly relaxed but distinguished by attentive service, and that’s one of the reasons it shines. Planted in the middle of the party-propelled District VII, it’s an oasis that revolves around two seasonal tasting menus from chefs Dávid Szabó and Zsuzsi Ötvös, and the vegan one is just as exhilarating as the carnivorous version. After amuse-bouches and aperitifs are savoured on the book-lined ground floor, the six- or seven-course menu – sunchokes with green apple and white onion was a knockout on a recent evening – unfolds on the lower level before returning upstairs for the petits fours finale.

Address: Laurel, Budapest, Kertész u. 29, 1073 Hungary
Website: laurelbudapest.hu

Marlou Wine Bar & Store

Just behind the Hungarian State Opera House is Marlou, a trove of natural wines spearheaded by the Frenchman Jean-Julien Ricard. Burrow into the sofa and crack open a bottle from one of the small Hungarian wineries (there are finds from further afield, too) like Barnag, Réka Koncz, and Kolónia 52 alongside weekly kitchen specials served Thursday through Saturday. Then, peruse the shelves for a souvenir to take home.

Address: Marlou wine bar & store, Budapest, Lázár u. 16, 1065 Hungary
Website: marlouwinebar.com

Tati

A farm in Biatorbágy, about a half hour from Budapest, is where many of the vegetables and fruits used at Tati are sourced. Putting Hungarian producers in the spotlight is owner Barbara Angeli-Poisson’s mission at this rustic-tinged restaurant (think brick walls and bales of hay), serving everyday brunches and dinners centred on nostalgic yet refined Hungarian dishes. Standouts include lángos flatbread sprinkled with sausage crumbs and savoury French toast stuffed with eggplant and cheese from the nearby village of Baracska.

Address: Tati, Budapest, Dohány u. 58-62, 1076 Hungary
Website: tatibudapest.com

 

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