Address: Via Carducci, 2, 22030 Orsenigo CO, Italy
Website: instagram.com
Il Beccaccino
Among the colours and scents of the Pian di Spagna protected reserve, where birds peep curiously at diners, this eco-friendly Lake Como restaurant in the offbeat village of Sorico is a must-stop for nature and fine food lovers. It used to be the chef’s former family home, and now, after a makeover, it blends in with the surroundings. First, enjoy the many fish varieties from the chef’s daily catch on the elegant wooden-and-glass veranda. Then, at sunset, indulge in an amaro or liqueur at the floating open bar, an old boat wreck recovered from the lake bed which has been finely restyled.
Address: Ristorante Beccaccino, Via Boschetto, 49, 22010 Sorico CO, Italy
Website: ristorantebeccaccino.it
Polentoteca Chalet GabrieleGabriele Corti
Polentoteca Chalet Gabriele
Plunge into die-hard peasant food traditions at this low-key stone-wooden mountain hut in the hamlet of Piano Rancio in the lake’s wilderness. The main dish is Toc, which is more of an eating ritual: guests are served a huge communal copper cauldron of cornmeal mush polenta with missoltini lake shads, homegrown hens and salami, placed in the centre of the table. They’re invited to eat with their bare hands as in past hard times when low-income families shared one meal a day. The name ‘toc’ derives from the dialectal word ‘Tucà’ (meaning ‘to touch, take with your hands’). The dish is prepared by master ‘tocchisti’, and it’s become a rare delicacy; this chalet still makes it according to ancestral techniques. Afterwards, go for a stroll in the surrounding forests.
Address: Polentoteca Chalet Gabriele, Località Prà Filippo, 60, 22030 Bellagio CO, Italy
Website: polentoteca.com
Crotto Valdurino
Prepare for a throwback to an earlier era and delicious traditional cuisine cooked Nonna’s way. Crotto in local dialect means ‘cave’, and this tavern is partly built inside one. Open since 1882 and still run by the same historical family, it used to be a freezer cellar where food was stacked. Located in Vergonzano, a district in the secluded village of Moltrasio, it’s a no-frills place with a homey, sleepy vibe and great lake views. Owners are proud of their fish heaven: top specialities feature risotto with perch, whitefish butter and sage, and missoltini (dried salted shads). In winter, it’s more little birds and polenta cornmeal mush. As a digestive, order basil liqueur verdino.