Address: Via Cristoforo Colombo 157, Positano
While this enduring Positano favourite is a far cry from the off-radar beach shack it once was, the spirit of Adolfo Bella’s original restaurant lives on in its casual, toes-in-the-sand vibe. You still queue up on the beach for the boat with the red fish on its mast to reach it. The menu, unchanged in decades, is chalked up on a blackboard; grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves is a classic, as is zuppa di cozze (mussels) and grilled whole catch of the day. There are jugs of iced sangria, bottles of local white to slosh, and sunbeds to sleep it all off. Touristy? Yes, but it’s still fun.
Address: Via Laurito 40, Positano
Along with the increase in visitors to the weathered old fishing village of Cetara have come some enjoyable new eating and drinking options. Armatore, owned by the eponymous producers of canned tuna and anchovies et al., is one such place, tucked under the arches of the ancient town walls with a sea-facing terrace. The vibe is casual, with a short-ish menu based on what the local waters offer: deep-fried anchovies or octopus tentacles, paccheri pasta with monkfish ragù and seared tuna steak with crispy sea lettuce. The three-course tasting menu is reasonably priced at €35; or you can simply pop in for an aperitivo.
Address: Via Galea 1, Massa Lubrense
Casa Mandina, Maiori
One of the new generation of restaurants recently opened in the area, the Pappalardo brothers’ relaxed, contemporary Casa Mandina, is in Maiori, just east of Amalfi. After stints in some of the Costiera’s finest kitchens, the sibling chefs set out to offer something a bit different, hence their Chef’s Table, where diners can book seats at a counter for a five-course tasting menu which comes with ringside views of the action in the kitchen and direct contact with the chefs. Alternatively, you can choose à la carte; dishes are based on local traditions with the odd diversion, hence beef tartare with black truffles, risotto with red mullet and saffron, tempura of salt cod and pig’s cheek with ginger and black truffle. Finish with tarte tatin made with local annurca apples.